The North Downs

Part of the following was originally penned back in April. My apologies for finishing it so late.

The view from Chartham Downs

Oh, What a Beautiful Morning!  My niece Mia and I went for a ride this morning along the narrow lanes on the edge of the North Downs here in Kent.  Our primary goal was to hear/see a skylark, or if we were very lucky, an early cuckoo.  We were disappointed in that goal but what a wonderful outing we had.  We saw a chiffchaff, magpies, lots of wood pigeons, a goldfinch, a huge and curious fox, a peacock and several pheasants, rooks, etc.  The bluebells were out in force, carpeting the woods. 

Later, we visited Denge wood, although the birds there had gone quiet during the mid-morning.

The next day Mia was again interested in bird-watching and running, although she's way too fast for me!  This time we drove up to Stodmarsh and although we didn't see anything very spectacular, it was another beautiful, quiet morning. Unfortunately, it was again too quiet: no sound of skylarks or cuckoos.  The photo above was taken from one of the hides.  So peaceful as the swan glided from left to right.

The North Downs have, I would say, been a significant factor in my life.  Stretching from Guildford in the West (although, in a sense, the Downs could be said to extend all the way to Salisbury plain) to Dover (and the English Channel) in the East, they form a crescent which brings them quite close in to London.  The Canterbury pilgrims used the downs for several reasons ("The Pilgrims' Way"): firstly for navigation -- it's easier to follow the ridge line of a range of hills.  This must have been especially important in the early days of the pilgrimage (the end of the 12th century) when usage had not yet resulted in easily followed tracks.  Second, they were perhaps a little less likely to be ambushed by footpads since the had the advantage of visibility and height.  Third, the soil (based on chalk) is porous and so wet patches do not develop that would slow passage -- in contrast to the "Wealden" clay just to the South.  As the pilgrims reached the edge of the valley of the Stour (Chilham), they would turn left and leave the downs, passing through Chartham into Canterbury.

I remember many wonderful day trips from London notably to Box Hill and Leith Hill from which the view was always tremendous.  And two great men, Charles Darwin and Ralph Vaughan Williams were united, not only by the intertwining of their families, but in making their homes on the North slope of the Downs -- Darwin at Downe House in Orpington and Vaughan Williams at Leith Hill Place near Dorking.  I remember these hills too as the domain of the Chalk Hill Blue, a lovely if unassuming butterfly.  Whether or not they are still there, I know not.  Perhaps that should be my next nature quest for the North Downs.

The South Downs too have been if anything an even bigger influence in my youth.  I will tackle them in a future blog.  And I know just where to look for the Chalk Hill Blue in the South Downs :)